
The deposit is the moment the project stops being a conversation and starts being your money. It is also the single point where the horror stories you have heard all began. So the question is fair, and it deserves a straight answer rather than reassurance.
Texas has no statewide general contractor license. Anyone can print cards and call themselves a remodeler tomorrow. Plumbing is licensed by the state board and electrical by TDLR, and you should ask for those license numbers, but nobody has vetted the person holding your check. That is exactly why the structure of the payments matters more than the character read you get across the kitchen table.
What a deposit is actually for
A deposit is not a fee. It is not a retainer for the contractor’s time. It is working capital to buy the things that have to be bought before anyone can start, and to hold your place in a schedule.
On a kitchen, that means cabinets, which are usually ordered to your specification and cannot be resold. It means slab, which gets pulled and tagged for you. It means tile from a specific dye lot. On a bathroom it means the shower pan, the glass measurement deposit, and the tile.
That is the honest test. A deposit should be traceable to items. If your contractor cannot tell you what the deposit buys, it is not buying anything yet.

What is normal in Houston
For a kitchen or bathroom remodel here, a deposit in the range of 10 to 30 percent of the contract is normal and reasonable. On a mid-range Houston kitchen keeping the layout, which runs roughly $25,000 to $60,000, that is somewhere between about three thousand and eighteen thousand dollars, depending on how much of the material is custom.
Custom cabinets push it higher, legitimately. Cabinets installed run $230 to $500 per linear foot across all tiers, and a semi-custom or custom order typically requires the shop to be paid a substantial chunk at order. That is real, and a contractor who explains it that way is telling you the truth.
A cosmetic bathroom refresh at $3,500 to $8,500 should need a much smaller deposit, because most of what goes into it is stock and labor.
What is not normal
Fifty percent up front on a remodel is not normal here, and you should treat it as a question, not a deal breaker. Ask what it buys. If the answer is a list of purchase orders that genuinely add up to half the job, that is a story that holds together. If the answer is vague, you have your answer.
Full payment before work starts is never acceptable. Not with a discount attached, not for any reason.
Cash only, or a check made out to a personal name rather than a business, is a hard stop. So is a price that drops sharply if you pay today. Legitimate remodelers do not have a today price.
And a deposit collected before you have a signed scope of work is money handed over for an undefined obligation. The scope comes first. Always.
The part that actually protects you: the draw schedule
The deposit gets all the attention, but the draws are where people lose money. A contractor who takes 20 percent up front and then bills 60 percent at demo has still gotten far ahead of the work, and you have lost your leverage by week two.
The principle is simple. Your money should never be meaningfully ahead of the value installed in your house. Every payment should be tied to something you can walk over and look at.
Here is what a sane structure looks like on a kitchen. Yours may differ in the number of stages, but the shape should be recognizable.
| Stage | Typical share | What you should be able to see |
|---|---|---|
| Deposit at signing | 10 to 30 percent | Purchase orders issued, cabinets and slab ordered |
| Demo and rough-in complete | 20 to 25 percent | Old kitchen out, plumbing and electrical rough done |
| Cabinets set | 20 to 25 percent | Boxes installed and level, doors on |
| Countertops installed | 15 to 20 percent | Stone in, seams done, sink connected |
| Final completion | 10 percent minimum | Punch list closed, everything working |
That last line is the one people give away and regret. Hold a meaningful final payment until the punch list is genuinely done, because it is the only leverage you have at the end. This is precisely the mechanism that keeps a job from stalling, and it is the subject of why contractors vanish at 90 percent.

Questions to ask before you write the check
Ask what the deposit buys, item by item, and ask to see the purchase orders when they are issued. This is a completely normal request.
Ask whether the material is stored at their shop or a supplier, and what happens to it if the company folds. Ask for the license numbers of the licensed trades, and check them.
Ask whether the deposit is refundable, and under what conditions, before any material is ordered. There is usually a window. Get it in writing.
Ask what the final payment is contingent on, and get the punch list defined as a document rather than a feeling.
Then pay by a method that leaves a trail. A check to the business name or a card gives you a record and, in the card’s case, a dispute path. Cash gives you neither.
One thing worth saying plainly
A low deposit is not automatically the safer choice. A contractor who asks for nothing up front is either very well capitalized, which is rare in this trade, or is planning to fund your job with someone else’s deposit. That second pattern is how the whole thing collapses when one job goes sideways.
What you want is not the smallest number. It is a number that matches an explainable list of purchases, followed by draws that trail the work. A contractor who volunteers that structure before you ask for it has told you a great deal about how they run jobs. If you are comparing bids right now, how to actually compare three quotes covers reading payment terms alongside price, and how to tell whether a contractor will do what they said covers the rest of the check.
How Haven handles this
Our deposit is named to its purchase orders. When you sign, you get the list: which cabinets, which slab, which tile, which fixtures, what each one costs, and what the deposit covers of it. You can see where your money went because it is written down next to the things it bought.
After that, the draws follow the work rather than the calendar. Demo and rough-in, cabinets set, countertops in, then final at punch list. Nothing is billed for a stage that has not happened, and the final payment stays yours until the last item on the list is closed out.
We are a family company, and Marilu has been signing these contracts here for a long time. If you want to see exactly what a deposit would buy on your kitchen before you commit to anything, we will price it and put the list in writing.
Want the number for your house?
We walk the room with you, measure it, and put a real figure in writing before we leave. It is free and there is nothing to sign.
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